Friday, May 09, 2003

Would you like to take a ride on my moustache?

I've arrived in Cusco safe and sound after three plane rides and much time sipping cappucino in the Lima airport. I was able to keep myself entertained on my long day cataloging the effects of my altitude sickness medication - it causes your heart to pump faster so that you breathe more frequently and it also expels water from your body, so I've had tingling fingers and toes, a weird numbness in my mouth, and have had to pee practically every 20 minutes. The flight from Lima to Cusco was advertised as spectacular and it didn't disappoint. Flying directly over the Andes, it seemed as though the plane were skipping from peak to peak, much like stepping stones across a river. As we descended into Cusco there were great views of the entire Sacred Valley. I was looking for signs of Machu Picchu, but couldn't tell if I actually saw it or not. There are huge stone fortresses and other structures all over the valley and we weren't close enough to pick up distinguishing characteristics.
At the airport there were a bevy of taxi drivers, bus drivers, tour drivers - you get the idea. They follow you around: "lady, where are you going?" "Lady, Plaza des Armes, 5 soles". They were incredibly persistant, but luckily the driver from my hostel was there to pick me up. Once we got there (The Hostal Amaru, Dad) he sat me down, poured me a cup of coca tea and proceded to tell me all about the things I needed to see and do while in this area, complete with a hand-drawn calendar for the following week that I am supposed to use to plan my time here. "Not today, you rest today, drink coca tea. Tomorrow you plan."
It was great; apparently 80 percent of the people working in this town are in the tourist business and it shows. If you stop for a minute to snap a picture, you'll be approached by a postcard vendor, tour operator, and a little girl who wants you to pay her to take her picture with a baby llama. Cusco's been a mecca for tourists since Inka times, when all good Qechuas made a pilgrimage here; I'll bet that the only thing that's changed with the times are the number of internet cafes.
It's beautiful and sunny outside, so enough of this internet cafe for me.